The Mexican brand ABL Estudio offers a refreshing alternative to the current landscape of fashion brands. The designer and owner Alvaro Barrera has built a simultaneously nostalgic and modern universe, inspired by his home city, Monterrey. His designs are all about versatility, appropriate for the different social demands the city makes of its citizens’ wardrobes.
Perfectly capturing the intensity of Monterrey’s culture and lifestyle, the brand focuses on adaptability. Each garment is designed to be modified or styled differently, so wearers can transform effortlessly throughout their day. The clothes could be styled for the office, hanging out at a horse ranch or a night out – and that adaptability is his goal. In an interview with Archived Dreams Alvaro explains about the city:
“There’s a lot of intense work culture and also a very intense social life and [my clothes are about] how one has to navigate through work and leisure.”
After dropping out from fashion business at NYU Alvaro moved to Florence to learn more about the technical aspects of clothing production. Despite not having originally been accepted into the program due to certain requirements, he convinced the academic director that he would be a good addition to the program. After fighting for his spot, he was able to pursue his dream at Polimoda. Learning about pattern-making, sewing, and textile theory prepared him to launch a brand with high standards in design as well as materials.
Though he credits his education for much of the knowledge he’s accumulated along the way, he also attributes much of it to learning by doing. He had always loved vintage textiles and garments. He even had a short stint in jewelry-making. Before starting ABL Estudio, Barrera would thrift and resell clothes – even hosting a pop-up with Archived Dreams in 2022. His vintage business taught him about the different silhouettes and construction, as well as consumer behavior. It also helped him discover what clothes and fabrics he liked.
Feeling like no one in the market was offering the designs he wanted, in the materials he wanted at reasonable prices, Alvaro launched ABL. Working with his team and solving problems that come up along the way has been the most valuable lesson in all of it. Even if some mistakes cost him time and money, he puts a positive spin on it: he’ll know better in the future.
Growing up, Alvaro was always mindful of not buying more than he needed. Shopping only 1-2 pieces per year, he would buy in a way that would last for a long time. These initial values he developed regarding clothes have now made their way into his brand philosophy: create for longevity, produce avoiding wastefulness. This also made him understand that you have to try to do the most with what you have. Through his collaborations with friends and people in his circle, he has been able to do more with less.
The newest collection “Los Ebanos”, named after a residential area close to Monterrey, features all organic materials: leather, denim, cotton, and silk. There are basic pieces, like vests, simple t-shirts, shorts and skirts, included but the collection also proves tailoring skills with more complex pieces like blazers, jackets and coats. This mix of basic and more elaborate pieces is fully intentional. According to Barrera, the collection and campaign encapsulate a full day from sunrise to sunset, reflecting how different times of day are associated with specific activities and societal expectations. The collection transitions from morning workwear to active attire during midday, followed by casual yet chic outfits for social outings in the late afternoon, and culminates in bold, nightlife ensembles.
This progression symbolizes a shift from conservative, rule-bound looks to more expressive, fun, and liberated styles. The metallic makeup element in campaign pictures highlights this transformation, and gradually becomes more apparent throughout the day, representing the connection between individuality, queer identity and nightlife. By night, this metallic touch transfers from makeup into accents on the clothes, signifying a release from daytime constraints. This collection, through its progression and details, navigates the complexities of identity, conformity, and self-expression within the societal norms of Monterrey.
The signature piece, the “Star Top”, has a cut-out on the chest, with drawstrings cinching it into a star shape. An incredibly unique and creative design Barrera has reiterated in many different fabrics, patterns and even into a dress. The made-to-order process ensures quality, fit and minimized waste. The inspiration for the product came to him when one of his girlfriends was wearing a tight button-up blouse, with a part in the chest area unbuttoned. It reminded the designer of a superhero emblem, but instead of putting a shield above the chest, he chose to leave the space open to signify vulnerability through which wearers could feel empowered and confident – and show off their boobs. It’s storytelling about the woman he designs for. Alvaro Barrera’s muse only exists in his head as
“this stunning, effortless woman that does all these different activities during the day, so she’d need garments that you can tie differently and adapt to different environments throughout the day.”
The brand has grown its popularity organically to almost 20k followers Instagram. There hasn’t been any influencer marketing, even though that might be the next step. However, who becomes an ambassador for ABL Estudio will be subject to a strict selection process – in line with the brand’s emphasis on authenticity, Alvaro doesn’t want anyone to promote his clothes just because they are paid for it.
Barrera is committed to keeping ABL Estudio’s production local. His connection to his team in Mexico is rooted in a sense of community and desire for mutual growth. The designer emphasizes the importance of working closely with talented local seamstresses and patternmakers.
"I want to stay in Mexico because my seamstresses and my patternmakers are very talented, and I feel like we've created a really good team."
His commitment to his team shows in his desire to see them grow alongside the brand, providing better opportunities and roles as the business expands, but also wanting them to venture out on their own. One of his seamstresses recently opened her own studio, which he was thrilled about, hoping to see everyone he works with excel and keep collaborating with them. Alvaro's vision includes not only maintaining but also elevating local craftsmanship by ensuring fair pay and offering benefits such as healthcare – impressive, considering the scale he is currently at and how much bigger brands do not take care of their workers in the same way. As he looks towards the future, Alvaro hopes to open additional studios, starting in Mexico City, to provide personalized, made-to-measure experiences.
