If you check the wash label of your gym shorts, it probably reads some percentage of nylon. The synthetic fabric is commonly associated with sportswear and lingerie. Over the past four decades, nylon has made its way into the fashion world. From avant-garde collections to technical garments, the material offers a modern appearance, water-resistant properties, and the potential for unconventional applications.
Material History
The invention of nylon is generally attributed to Wallace Carothers, a world-renowned organic chemist. He left Harvard and joined DuPont, the American chemical production conglomerate, in 1927. After years of research, which included melting various organic compounds together, the synthetic material was born. Notably, nylon provided greater strength, elasticity, and resistance to heat and water than man-made fibers.
DuPont was determined to capitalize on this invention, and entered the booming women’s hosiery market of the 1930s. Their cheaper and snag-resistant stockings, called ‘nylons,’ attracted lines of customers. In 1945, DuPont announced the transition of their manufacturing towards war efforts: nylon ropes, nets, and parachutes. While the combat went on in Europe, riots began in American stores over remaining stockings. Whenever nylon was unavailable on the black market, women would resort to creating imitations with lotions, creams, or even by painting their legs.
A Bag that Changed Fashion
The notorious Italian fashion house, Prada, originally specialized in crafting high-quality leather goods like bags and trunks. In 1977, Miuccia Prada took helm of the brand with a fresh outlook on luxury fashion.
“Back then, I didn’t really like anything I saw. It all just looked so old and bourgeois and boring. I just wanted to search for the absolute opposite of what was already out there.” - Miuccia Prada
In 1984, she challenged the status quo by releasing the Vela bag. Using nylon in luxury goods radiated a revolutionary spirit, attracting young customers and reviving the label. Skeptics questioned the hefty price tag, which cost more than leather bags. In response, Miuccia explained that her team dedicated three to four years to learning how to work with nylon.
Two years later, Prada showcased their first womenswear collection, with nylon utilized throughout. The show wasn’t popular; Miuccia credited this to others forcing her to compromise ideas in order to become - what they viewed to be - more commercial. Throughout the 90s, Miuccia exerted greater creative control over the brand, sending nylon women's and menswear looks down the runway. Her visionary attitude ultimately revolutionized the use of nylon in luxury goods and fashion. Nylon has since become synonymous with Prada’s heritage.
More Than a Uniform
Another fashion legend who put nylon on the map was the late Issey Miyake. His eponymous studio opened in 1970 and created wearable, yet materially provocative, clothing.
In 1981, Sony’s chairman Akio Morita wanted to keep up with the growing prevalence of fashion by implementing uniforms that employees would be proud to wear, choosing to commission the uniform to Issey Miyake. Miyake designed a jacket with zipper-detachable sleeves. The genius garment transformed into a vest for year-round use. Lightweight nylon offered comfort and functionality, unlike conventional winter uniforms that felt stiff. You can see the piece’s influence today in garments like San San Gear’s nylon 2WAY WAVE JACKET.
Issey Miyake is known for his novel textile developments, fusing art and technology. In 1985, he and textile director Makiko Minagawa engineered a “Seashell” coat with a specially treated nylon fishing line and cotton-linen threading. The unique fabric composition and design produced a cocoon effect, swaddling the body.
Contemporary Designers
Today’s young fashion brands and emerging talents are continuing the groundbreaking legacy of nylon by testing its capabilities and implementing the fabric in new ways.
In Seoul, Post Archive Faction (PAF) designs subversive looks using technical fabrics. Their futuristic enterprise relies on core design elements such as asymmetry, layering, and paneled construction. PAF’s garments fall under three categories: RIGHT, CENTER, or LEFT, from least to most experimental, respectively. Each collection builds off of their previous work, thus generating an expanding archive of their own.
One significant moment of PAF’s evolution was the introduction of laser-cut garments. Designers create patterns with the parametric modeling tool Grasshopper, typically used by architects. Once the visuals are printed, they get mapped onto a bodice, and then used to precisely laser-cut the fabric. Nylon is ideal because the laser leaves few markings on the top surface and seals the edges, preventing any fraying. This process results in intricate and mesmerizing garments with cut-out motifs.
Within Copenhagen, two brothers are transforming the future of fashion. Julius and Victor Juul are founders of Heliot Emil; their brand focuses on innovative technologies, textiles, and hardware.
Over the years, the Heliot Emil design team has developed and implemented incredible fabrics with unique material properties. Their Spring/Summer 2019 collection explored water-reflective fabric that reveals a logo when in contact with H2O. They’ve also tested heat-reactive, anti-radiation fabrics, 3D-printed boots and dresses, anti-tracking accessories that block GPS signals, inflatable garments, and even fire-proofing.
Most notable are trousers that resemble liquid metal, made from a blend of polyester, viscose, and nylon. This design garnered much attention for the brand, which then expanded the use of the fabric to a jacket, vest, skirt, and shorts.
Yufei Liu (aka Fey Fey), graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2021. Her brand, Fey Fey Worldwide, explores modern femininity in a humorous and alternative way. Whimsical graphics can be seen in the website design, punctuation-shaped bottoms, and post-ironic Betty (homophone of Bad-Tee) tees.
“The idea is that women not only laugh at jokes but also make the jokes. Humorously playing the tension between “Space” and “female iconography”, I decide to take up space. I am serious about being unserious. Being rude to those who are used to be making myself small, it’s about my presence, that makes them step aside. The bigger the clothes inflates, the larger the space I occupy. It was always my space. But now they are aware that they were in it, and they move aside.” - Fey Fey
Inflatables have been a staple in Fey Fey’s work, from her thesis, handbags, and recent collection. Nylon is either used on its on or as the interior lining. The tight woven material blocks air from escaping. As an integrated battery-powered fan blows into the piece, the lightness of the nylon enables it to expand into the inflated form. Furthermore, Fey Fey’s work showcases nylon’s ability to transform with air while alluding to her theme of taking back space.
Another young designer, Charlie Constantinou, is transforming how nylon is used. In 2022, he received an MA in fashion design from Central Saint Martins. His namesake label offers pieces inspired by the ancient world and futurism. Moreso, Charlie is building a name for himself through material exploration, using deadstock fabric, unique and nature-inspired dyes, and quilted nylon.
“The quilted nylon bag can grow and shrink depending on how much stuff is in it. Taking a synthetic fabric and making it look organic is also really interesting to me. It looks out of nature but the man-made element makes it so durable.” - Charlie Constantinou
By utilizing the expandable properties of crinkled nylon, Charlie develops garments that offer comfort for a range of body types. He uses his distinct fabric technique in his jackets, shoes, and bags.
Sustainable Futures
As designers experiment with nylon, Charlie’s concern for waste production is a lasting issue. Nylon is a plastic generated from crude oil, specifically a petrochemical called hexamethyldiamine. Nitrous oxide, a potent greenhouse gas, is released during the manufacturing process. Additionally, the cooling process for the fibres requires a lot of water, which can lead to pollution if not handled carefully. Not to mention, the abundant energy required to fuel all of this.
Brands like Heliot Emil and A-Cold-Wall* are including more natural fabrics in their collections like mohair and cotton, respectively. Prada’s Re-Nylon collection utilizes recycled nylon, Econyl. While recycled nylon mitigates these biproducts, it is still non-biodegradable. Luckily, the company behind Econyl, Aquafil, is developing a plant-based nylon alternative.
The story of nylon is one of pushing boundaries, from its inception, its use in hosiery, luxury bags, uniforms, runway looks, and now, the visionary work of young designers. Nylon’s distinct lightness and strength have allowed creatives to reimagine what garments could be and how they behave. As this revolutionary tale continues, we can expect new innovations in fashion and in creating a more sustainable future.
