There’s a new playbook around for the brands in the know.
Think of the best café you’ve been to. What made it great? Was it the coffee? Was it the people you were with? Was it the music playing or the decor? Our opinions are often products of our environments. You’d expect the best coffee shop to have the best coffee – yet, many times, this isn’t the case. We go places for a million different reasons other than the product offering, and younger fashion brands are starting to catch on.
Fashion creates a moment, but it takes a culture to create a universe. The only way for newer brands to survive is to create a culture worth buying into – and they are. These are the brands soaring to new heights in the modern age. And perhaps more importantly, this is how they’re doing it.
Part 1. Forging Their Online Space
Twenty years ago, fashion sales were almost exclusively in person. Because of this, brands used these physical spaces to situate their new lines, allowing the brand to control the way their products are seen and consumed. In these locations, brands could make themselves greater than fashion, becoming masters of space.
While this is still the case at many locations, times have changed. With a majority of purchases now occurring online, brands have switched spheres to the internet to prove themselves as masters of (the digital) space. With the internet, creativity cannot be stifled, allowing for brands to capitalize on creativity with video campaigns, elaborate imaging showcasing new lines and products, and evocative brand-building through moodboarding. This shift in medium allows the brand to reclaim the way their products are seen; for many consumers a simple picture of a model in a new tee might not be enough to sell, but seeing the tee worn by a model on the beautiful beaches of Turks and Caicos – now that’s luxury.
It also allows the brand to reach a whole different audience. Though potential audiences may not be interested in the actual pieces being showcased, they can appreciate a well made video showcasing the brand’s ideology, background, or processes. creating this multidimensionality for a brand gives us a reason to care that the clothes may not.
Jacquemus
In setting out to capture beauty everywhere, the French brand has become exemplary of how to elevate a brand through marketing.
Their eye-catching runway landscapes perfectly capture the brand's essence – the luxury of a summer holiday with your friends. By highlighting the natural beauty of Earth, their products pop amidst the vibrant landscapes their shows take place. Its not just their shows, however, along with each announcement of the anticipated runway destination, the brand releases short tourism videos for each location, encapsulating city and country scenes in the new releases.
The creative projects create a highly curated, cultured online space for the brand to live in. In depicting high class vacation destinations with a casual joie de vivre, the videos elevate the brand without in-your-face marketing. Their more elaborate campaigns lean into surrealism or exaggeration, creating a (literally) larger-than-life image for their brand. Jacquemus knows what it stands for, and show its audiences using their online platforms — a true modern luxury.
Drôle de Monsieur
Translating to funny/strange gentlemen, the now-Paris-based brand was founded in 2014 as a way for creators Dan Dos Santos and Maxime Schwab to share their common vision of fashion while creating something with their hands. The brand is probably best known for their slogan – “Not From Paris Madame” – which centers the brand’s vision on Santos and Schwab’s humble Dijon upbringing. The brand disregards the traditional practice of building their collections off themes, opting instead to build a brand on one continuous inspiration.
Despite their main focus being in fashion, this stream of inspiration allows the brand to build its online space through storytelling and archiving. Whether its collaborative projects showcasing the work of other artists and celebrities, or the Drôle de Monsieur journal, the brand establishes a strong brand image through all its projects, establishing itself as a clear voice in its space.
Throughout all of their creative collaborations, Drôle de Monsieur crafts short videos telling the story of their collaborator. In telling the story of the others while using key brand iconography and design, the brand is able to master their online space flawlessly while reinforcing the brand's strong image. They leverage these collaborations to show how “Not From Paris Madame” is a way of life – not just a catch phrase. All of the stories, whether its with a Portuguese tile-maker, Mike Tyson or musician Masego reinforce the brand’s ethos – talent can come from anywhere.
The brand also uses their website and Tumblr page as a journal to reinforce a strong sense of self. While not using their own images, the result of their cultural compilation creates a moodboard for their audience. A picture is worth a thousand words, and by using pictures approved by the brand Drôle is able to use their online space to showcase what the brand is really about.
Pt. 2: Making the Runway a Show
Fashion runways are the first showcase for months of work. By creating around their runway pieces and models, brands can add a dimension to their showcases expanding their prowess beyond the clothes themselves. Whether it’s elaborate runway performance creating a show for their viewers, using their set pieces to manipulate how the audiences first see their new lines, or creating interactive displays for their audience – the runways have certainly become a place for showmanship to go along with the artistry.
Through these elaborate shows, the work goes beyond the fashion – it becomes a must-see event. This had-to-be-there element also encourages audience engagement and interest: an element integral to having earned media during the busy fashion week schedule. In the internet age, it can be difficult for a brand to get their name out to the public, especially when competing with veterans in the fashion game. This showmanship element, when executed well, attracts coverage to brands that might otherwise have to fight for the limelight. A well crafted show creates online buzz, a foundation to any modern campaign.
KidSuper Studios
Created by Colm Dillane in the early 2010s, the brooklyn-based KidSuper is one of the hottest brands of the 2020s. Forged from Dillane's life experience, the brands focus on vibrant color schemes, outside-of-the-box celebrity collaborations and Dillane's love for a good show has allowed the brand to have a meteoric rise as of late. Most recently, the brand has a standout show at 2024 Paris Fashion week, cementing the brand as something that's here to stay.
KidSuper has a knack for theatricality. Previously, their shows have been whole musicals or stand-up comedy specials – tapping into the culture in a new and unique way, while creating a memorable experience. Perhaps the most pivotal moment in KidSuper's rise to stardom, their runway collection titled "ITS ALL IN THE AIR" in collaboration with Cirque Du Soleil combined performance art, fashion and music into the standout show 2024's Paris Fashion Week.
The show saw models being escorted out by a hand to mirror marionettes, along with circus performances from Cirque Du Soleil, backed by unreleased tracks from Westside Gunn, Smino and other musical artists — creating a standout show that will be remembered for years to come. Previous show performances put on by KidSuper include a live art auction, a comedy show with the comedians adorning new pieces and an autobiographical play put on by Dilllane himself.
SUNNEI
Milan's SUNNEI is no stranger to exploring beyond fashion. Started in 2015 by Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina with just fifteen menswear pieces, the brand has now explored ventures into music, interior design and other "objects". Their independent work along with creative collaborations with other brands such as Camper and cc-tapis has created a brand that maintains its signature style throughout creative experiments — whether that's in music, furniture or art.
For their FW22 show, SUNNEI took the word "runway" to a whole new level. Instructing the photographers to take out their phones and record in slow motion, the models then showcased the new line by running across the scene. This performance towed the boundary between show and fashion to create an engaging display for the audience. In FW23, SUNNEI subverted audience expectation in this "runway gone wrong". Complete with set collapses, pieces falling apart and models falling into the audience, the show created a one of a kind experience for those who were lucky enough to attend all while promoting that seasons release. In their CC-Tapis collaborative drop for FW24, SUNNEI had full runway control. Rugs designed by the brand carpeted the runway, paving the way for their complimentary new line. The rugs were later sold as interior design pieces.
Pt. 3: Building Community
Bringing people together is perhaps one of the greatest impact a brand can have. Using a platform to unite people from all walks of life over a common passion gives back to the community in ways a new clothing lines could never reach. Through community engagement the brand can support those that have supported them, all while gaining new fans in the communities they touch.
Fashion creates moments, but memories last forever. People may not remember "X" brands Fall/Winter 2022 look book, but people will remember events with friends — whether that's movies, music or a yo-yo tournament. While not explicitly at the focus of their events, the brand elevates itself at a local levels, selling exclusive merch, bringing out guests and listening to passionate members of its fan base.
Many modern fashion brands have become out of touch with a majority of the population. While exclusive events in epicenters like Paris, LA and London showcase illustrious cosigns and affinity for the wealthy, these events aren't for the people. Many newer brands are keeping their ear to the streets, hosting accessible events for the masses – brands putting on for their city and connecting the people that brought them to their heights today.
Aimé Leon Dore
Founded in 2014 by Teddy Santis, the New York based brand focuses fusing the New York streetwear aesthetic with high-class fashion. The resulting look has become an iconic representation of New York culture, and this strong brand vision has allowed the brand to thrive through its diverse projects. Through creative collabortions with New Balance, Timberland and more the brand's has taken over the American mainstream fashion culture with their iconic New Balance 550s being worn by big names such as Justin Bieber, Bella Hadid and Big Sean. Recently, the brand has sought a more elevated status after investment from LVMH in 2022.
Aimé Leon Dore has many initiatives to engage the community. The Mulberry Classic, for example, is an annual half court, 3x3 basketball tournament hosted by Aimé Leon Dore and its many collaborators in the street courts of New York City. With a grand prize of 20,000 dollars, the brand unites the New York Streets through a love for basketball. The "Only in New York" new event created a spectacle for basketball and non-basketball fans alike, with the court and hoops later being donated to Henry St. Settlement, a program for New Yorkers affected by poverty.
In addition to their store location, Aimé Leon Dore operates two coffee shops, one in New York and one in London - Café Leon Dore. Through creating a third place, the brand carefully curates the design of the cafes to align with the brand's vision. This allows the brand to reach into new audiences because even if you're not into fashion, who doesn't love a good coffee shop. Aimé Leon Dore's Sound series unites fans of the brand through a shared love for music. The brand hosts DJ's from a variety of genres, turning their cafes into studios for the guests to spin. The series shows a mastery of culture. From the brand's signature look being displayed behind the DJ's to the mixes of cross-genre deep cuts, the series blends New York's longstanding DJ culture with a modern soundscape.
Brain Dead
Founded in 2014 Kyle Ng and Ed Davis, the Los Angeles-based fashion collective is the epitome of building a culture through community. Their maximalist approach and laundry list of collaborators, the collective is always looking for ways to push the boundaries of entertainment in the fashion world. Along with the typical seasonal drops, the brand works year round to put on for their community. Their "Brain Dead Studios" movie theater shows weekly screenings of film classics, they host an annual magic tournament, most recently they hosted a yo-yo tournament in collaboration with Faye Webster. Regardless of the event, the Brain Dead community shows up. By bringing people together, the brand is able to exist through creating memorable events for thousands.
No matter who the collaboration is – Brain Dead brings people together. Through hosting an array of events engaging with the community, the brand is able to create culture around their product without compromising creativity. Creativity is better with collaboration. By holding on to the brand's collectivist approach, Brain Dead is able to tap into all spheres of culture, creating so much more than just a fashion line. Collaboration is not just beneficial for fresh brand looks. Through working in a variety of spheres of culture, the brand is able to reach new audience with ease. These new audiences directly participate in Brain Dead's built culture, oftentimes creating memories that last a life time in way their traditional Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer looks never could.
Conclusion
The evolution of modern fashion brands highlights a shift from mere product sales to the cultivation of immersive experiences and lasting connections. By embracing digital spaces, innovative runway presentations, and community-driven initiatives, brands are redefining what it means to engage with an audience. They move beyond clothing, creating vibrant cultures that resonate with their followers.
Whether it's through captivating online storytelling, unforgettable runway spectacles, or accessible community events, these brands are pioneering a model where identity and creativity intersect seamlessly with commerce. They’ve proven that the essence of fashion lies not only in what we wear but in how it makes us feel and connects us to a larger cultural narrative.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, it’s clear that the most successful brands are those that prioritize authenticity, creativity, and community. These attributes enable them to craft universes that transcend products, turning consumers into loyal participants of a shared vision. In an era where moments can define loyalty, modern fashion brands have found that creating a culture is the ultimate expression of luxury and longevity.
