It might have flown under the radar for some, but last week was Berlin Fashion Week. Founded only in 2007, it is a very young fashion week, but that’s exactly where it draws its strengths from.
Similar to London, Berlin is incredibly open and welcoming to new creative talents. This past week, I’ve thought of two different reasons why Berlin might be so attractive to up-and-coming designers. First may be an obvious one: money. Compared to other fashion capitals, the German city has relatively low rent prices and high living standards; brands can set up operations here for a fraction of the costs it would take in Milan, Paris, New York or London. Second: Berlin is full of young creatives looking to break into the industry and hungry to see new things. This hunger for new perspectives on and new approaches to fashion can be seen across Berlin Fashion Week.
Here’s three projects we thought were worth looking out for.
Milk of Lime SS25
On Monday afternoon the SS25 collection by Milk of Lime – named ‘CURRENTS’ – was held at Silent Green Kulturquartier, the former crematorium of Wedding, Berlin. Attendees fully understood the assignment and came dressed in their finest lace and leather, giving the show the aura of a fashionable funeral. From the beginning to end the theme of currents were explored. Upon entering the venue where countless bodies had transformed into their final form, the energetic currents were immediately present. The show took place in the mourning hall, chairs were set up in 3 concentric rings around the hall’s center. The inspiration behind the clothes were wind, water and energy – all elements of nature that flow in currents.
Nature and its forces acts as a general motif for the brand which has its headquarters in Neustadt an der Weinstraße, an idyllic small town in Southern Germany, close to their manufacturers, surrounded by Vineyards and meadows. A place that the designer duo, Julia Ballardt and Nico Verhaegen, refer to for all their inspiration.
A quiet melody, waxing and waning in intensity, accompanied sounds of waves rolling onto a beach, rain, thunder and ravens cawing as the audience waited for the show to begin. The atmospheric soundscape was reminiscent of sitting in a church in Southern Germany, listening to a thunderstorm softly rage outside the building.
The pieces of the Milk of Lime SS25 collection were a mix of soft lace and see-through mesh pieces, combined with more tailored silhouettes out of leather and denim. Many of the pieces had a weathered look to them, like two shirts that were each dyed blue and green from the collar down the front, the color losing intensity on its way down.
Highlights were three coats representing three stages of the wind. The beautifully crafted textured cotton-jacquard pieces were created in collaboration with graphic designer and artist Jeroen Van Den Bogaert. The first one portrays stillness, with a candle burning in the wind on its front. The second one shows a stronger wind, represented by falling trees and low-flying birds. The third one, the ‘Devastion Coat’, shows a catastrophic scenario in which our world is ending, referring to the future we could be headed into, should we not begin taking care of our planet.
A beautiful collection, and a manifesto of creativity and technical talent by Milk of Lime.
Haderlump
Tuesday at 5pm, Haderlump invited a large crowd to Berlin’s abandoned former airport Tempelhof’s Hangar 6 to show their SS25 collection. Attendants got a chance to look at historical aircrafts while waiting for the show to begin. After a soft gong and the following announcement that the show was about to start, everyone found their seats. On a hard, melodic techno beat they showed the 28 looks of their ‘AERO’ collection.
Johann Ehrhardt, the designer behind the brand, found inspiration in the fashionable pilotess Amelia Earhart. After making the transatlantic trip as a passenger she later became the first woman to fly solo across the ocean. Earhart was an exceptional personality beyond aviation, though. In her private life, she notably kept her last name when marrying Charlie Putnam and reportedly led an open marriage with him. As an inspiration for a fashion collection it is only fitting that she had her own fashion line herself, producing aviation apparel for women. While the Haderlump collection took over some elements of Earnhart’s fashion line, it is much more modern, fashionable and probably not very appropriate for operating an aircraft.
The looks were a mix of utility and casual wear, with clear influences from the airfield. Accessories included flight caps and goggles, leather harnesses and bags made from rough cotton. This year’s collection shows a clear evolution from the brand’s last collection, with improved craftsmanship and cleaner designs. Though the raw elements of Haderlump’s FW24 show were a nice stylistic element, the pieces felt unfinished and juvenile at times. Without losing the brand’s distinct style and identity, Ehrhardt manages to take a big leap toward being able to compete at an international level.
The meticulously tailored coats and corsets, along with the three-piece closing dress, showcased the young brand's rapid development in vision and technical skill.
Namilia
The SS25 Namilia show titled ‘Good Girl Gone Bad’ came through a collaboration with the cult-status brand Ed Hardy. Showing in an abandoned train shaft of the Potsdamer Platz subway station, designers Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li told the tale of the destructive power of fame through reworking archival garments into new pieces of couture and streetwear. Partnering up with the Y2K icon Ed Hardy seems natural for the brand that has been known for its 2000s inspired aesthetic.
The collection takes a journey into a past when a tabloids held all the power – think Paris Hilton, Lindsey Lohan, Amanda Bynes – and women were scrutinized for anything and everything. In a text about the collection Namilia writes: “We worship the diva and shun the whore as the limelight inevitably wears down her decadence into decay.” While this rings true for the aforementioned era, it remains relevant today. In literal statements on Tanks and Baby Tees like “I ♥️ Ozempic” and “Fame Kills” the brand does a not-so-subtle nod to toxic celebrity culture and drug use, as always, appropriate to the current cultural zeitgeist.
However, the collection shows a material departure for the almost 10-year-old brand. No more black leather, motor racing sets, instead there are white and red leather mini-dresses and sets as well as a lot more denim and lace all crested in Ed Hardy fashioned appliqués. The 00s Hollywood fashion inspiration is clear even in Berlin Fashion Week.
Using irony and pop culture Namilia presents a commentary on society and our return to the hellish 2000s. Yes, it might’ve been a wild ride, but the rhetoric of the time caused countless eating disorders. It led to some awful fashion decisions for both us and celebrities. In the past year, there's been a return to diet culture with the rise of Ozempic. A glamorization of drug use is also happening, most recently in Charli XCX’s album ‘brat.’ As Namilia writes, why does pop culture push us to our breaking points for recognition, attention, and belonging? And the cycle continues.
Wrapping up Berlin Fashion Week we are left with excitement and anticipation for the future of fashion in Berlin. Could the famously anonymous, underground city finally make the switch to a fashion capitol that is actually economically viable? Or will it reject all commerciality in favor of its core values? These questions open a conversation about Berlin's desirability for up-and-coming designers in the future. If the city forgets what it is famous for—being cheap and sexy—will it still attract new talent? One thing is certain: we might have spent too much time focusing on traditional houses. The most interesting designs and new perspectives on sustainability may come from those without limitless resources.
